The
origin of Cashmere
The authenticate wool of cashmere can be only
found on the Himalayan and Ladakh and Tibet
high plates of and of Tibet. Á an average
altitude of 4.000 meters you can see the Capra
Hircus, a goat now domesticated, more known
under the name of Pashmina. This animal, whose
size is between the European domestic goat and
the dwarf goat, produces the invaluable wool
which made the term "cashmere" famous
in the world.
However, if it is in the area of the State of
Kashmir that the famous Shatuch shawls are sold,
so fine that man can pass them in a ring, it
is not from the North of India that come the
largest part of the exports. Today, the three
quarters of the raw material distributed in
the world come from China and Mongolia. Iran
and Afghanistan produce a large part of what
remains. But the quality of the hairs of their
Pashmina goats differs from the hairs of their
Himalayan cousins. 80% of the Mongolian production
is mainly exported towards China, Japan, Europe
and the United States where the wool is carded,
spun and transformed the way the creators desire.
But, once per year, the Fair of Canton becomes
the principal platform of sale of the cashmere
raw material.
The search
of the precious fibre
To protect itself from the lasting and hard
Mongolian winter where the temperatures reach
-40 degrees, the animal cover itself with a
thick wool fleece covered with long hairs. In
spring, the goat moults and its wool can be
collected. The hairs of the animal are cut before
being combed.
In a hard process, the wool is removed from
the remaining hairs. The matter is sorted according
to its natural colour and of its quality, the
softest wool being located on the belly of the
goat. Then the fibre is passed in a kind of
blower which removes them from their last impurities:
this operation is called plucking.
This
great cleaning followed by the washing of the
hairs provoke a lost of more than 80% of the
gross weight of the mowed matter. Given that
only the precious woolly fibre is exploited
and that a goat produces approximately 100 grams
of this fibre, it needs six goats to knit a
pullover in pure cashmere !
Quality
comes from natural colour
The four natural colours of hairs, white, average
gray, dark gray and camel, are thus ready to
be dyed. There are several processes to give
its colour to the cashmere :
- dye the raw material when it is only hairs
- dye the wire
- dye the pullover
To obtain a colour of wire as purest and shining
as possible, the best is to dye the raw material
before extracting the wire from it.
Cashmere House selects its raw material among
the hairs of a diameter lower than 15,5 microns
and carries out its treatment in Scotland, the
land of spinning of wool and of industry of
the pullover. The ancestral knowledge of this
country combined with the best qualities of
wire give to the creations of Alexandre Savin
a unique glare and a large panel of colours,
from dark tones to pastels, in a quality of
wire today unequalled.